Exploring Dire Dawa

Sunday 5th October

Today was John's last day. I had planned to go to a town called Jijiga, about 150km East of Dire Dawa towards Somaliland (Somalia). The Lonely Planet says "the stunning stretch of gravel road is one of the most scenic in Eastern Ethiopia, with superb volcanic rock formations, contoured terrain and a strangely seductive, end of the world atmosphere". Unfortunately, (or so I thought) problems finding a driver meant it was not possible to go.

However, some research on the FCO website revealed that a bomb went off in Jijiga a week ago (28 Sept) at 10.20am. Four people were killed and eight injured. Two weeks ago (22 Sept), two international staff members of Medicines du Monde were kidnapped by armed gunmen nearby and taken to Somalia. They have not yet been released and the identity of the kidnappers is not yet known. In 2007, there were three bombs, killing over 65 people in total. In 2006, there were three simultaneous bombs and a grenade attack in the town, leaving 43 dead. Needless to say, the FCO advise against all but essential travel to Jijiga.

So, instead of risking my life on a journey to Jijiga, I decided to go for a safer option and go with a new potential project (JECCDO) for a drive up to the highlands surrounding Dire Dawa. We drove alongside the Dechato Wadi (seasonal river, now dried up) before making a steep ascent up a rocky track. We made a brief stop at a cave, before resting to soak up the amazing panoramic views of the sprawling town of Dire Dawa and its surrounding jagged hills.

After lunch we explored Kafira market in the heart of the old town. The market attracts people from miles away including Afar herders, Somali pastoralists and Oromo farmers. We immersed ourselves in the maze of covered alleyways and shacks made from wood and cloth, protecting the fruit and vegetables from the overhead sun. We were greeted by goats, donkeys and people of all ages. The smells of onions, spices, coffee and incense covered the smell of rotting food. We stumbled across camel caravans from the Somali desert behind the market. The owners use camels to smuggle contraband merchandise by night from Djibouti to Ethiopia where it ends up in markets like these.

Calls of 'Farangi, farangi, what is your name' echoed everywhere we went; this was certainly the first time we had attracted so much attention. The attention did not feel at all hostile. The children wanted their photos taking and we didn't need much convincing.

After waving farewell to John at the airport I was taken to Kebele 05, the poorest of Dire Dawa's areas, by a project leader from JECCDO. In 2006, a landslide and flood devastated the area, killing hundreds and leaving thousands more homeless. The project leaders have been involved in stabilising the surrounding hillsides and teaching good farming practices to prevent future landslides. One farm, built just over a year ago, now produces approximately 100 litres per day for the local community.

The project has also provided educational support and facilities for the children who would otherwise have nothing. The project there seems to have been a great success - 35 students from the area have been accepted to universities across the country. It is really encouraging to encounter children from such poor and resourceless backgrounds committed to education, with ambitious yet realistic plans for their futures.